Getting locked out of your RV is an exercise in frustration. Especially if it’s one of those finicky, standard locks some manufacturers think are actually useful.
If you have no backup options, no hidden key, nor spare key taped to the side wall in the glove compartment (in the case of trailers with tow vehicles), it’s enough to ruin your day.
The thing is, being on the wrong end of a locked door is fairly common, even when keys aren’t involved. Ever forget the code on the keypad, anyone?
Dead batteries, jammed locks, and malfunctioning electronic keypads round out the rest of this disheartening tale.
Regardless of the lock type, it pays to stay calm and be prepared, in case this ever happens to you.
Speaking of being prepared, there are a few worthwhile solutions so you never again have to shuffle your feet in embarrassment while the locksmith does their thing—solutions for both conventional locks and electronic keypads.
Some are laughably simple, the forehead-slapping kind. Others are more intuitive, yet no less important to know.
Understanding RV Lock Systems
Let’s get the details out of the way first. If you’re locked out of your RV, it helps to understand the intricacies of your lock system.
Even your standard, basic lock is surprisingly complex, and you’re not entirely without options if you have a couple of thin wires lying around.
- Standard Handle Lock w/Deadbolt: This is a basic mechanical lock integrated into the door handle. It’s often paired with a separate deadbolt for additional security.
- Paddle Deadbolt Lock: These are heavy-duty mechanical locks with a flat “paddle” handle that includes a hardened steel deadbolt.
- Cam Lock: This is a flush-mounted, cylindrical, mechanical lock that uses a rotating cam to secure panels.
- Keyed-Alike Lock Set: Not necessarily a lock, but more of a set of locks, handles, and deadbolts that all use the same key for convenience.
- Keyless Keypad Locks: Electronic lock that’s unlocked with a numeric code on a keypad—typically battery-powered with a backup, physical key option.
- Fob/Remote Lock: Wireless, electronic lock using a key fob, like on your vehicle, or another remote for unlocking. These are often paired with deadbolts.
- Bluetooth Smart Lock: An app-controlled lock that connects to the app on your smartphone via Bluetooth. May include geofencing or remote access.
- Global Lockset: A specific brand of mechanical handle locks with deadbolts, identified by a “G” marking.
- Lever Lock: Mechanical lock with a lever handle instead of a knob; less common but more tamper-resistant.
- Barrel Bolt/Sliding Lock: A simple, manual slide bolt for internal securing, often an optional, secondary measure.
- Pin tumbler Lock: Your basic, standard keyed cylinder lock mechanism found on many RV handles and cams.
A lot more than you thought? Well, some are more common than others, and a few are fairly rare, though they are all applicable within the RV lock set market.
The first step in avoiding being locked out of your RV is knowing your locking mechanisms and how they work.
“Ours’s will unlock enough to open door but lock itself back when you shut it. I Have to make sure I turn lock all the way to unlock and it will not do that. I purchased two spares and keep one in the truck and one hidden outside side that I can get if needed.”
Immediate Steps When Locked Out
Alright, nobody wants to read a novel on getting locked out of your RV, so I’m combining some of these sets of RV lock types into single categories, though that doesn’t mean the methods listed are inaccurate.
The goal is to reduce redundancy. You’re welcome. I can be nice every now and then. Here goes:
Mechanical Keyed Door Locks
This category includes the standard handle lock (with deadbolt), the paddle deadbolt lock, the Global lockset, lever lock, and generally any lock with pin/tumbler mechanisms.
These are traditional key-operated locks primarily for main entry doors.
- Check for Spare Keys: No-brainer—first thing you do. If you don’t have a spare set, you need to have one. You can lock them in a secure spot in your vehicle or on a magnetic hide-a-key box hidden on the RV frame.
- Alternative Entry Points: Check any other doors, windows, emergency exits, or even storage or pass-through compartments that can access the interior. Just avoid getting stuck.
- Roadside Assistance: Good Sam, AAA, and some RV insurance providers offer lockout help. Be sure to provide your RV model for compatibility confirmation.
- Mobile Locksmith: The last resort alternative. Cost is $50 to $150, depending on location and complexity.
Mechanical Keyed Compartment Locks
It’s not always about being locked out of your RV. Locking yourself out of your compartments is a thing as well.
These are typically cam lock or keyed-alike lock sets with flush or rotating locks. Storage bays, cargo areas, panels, etc., are all included.
The standard key you’ll hear more about than any other is the CH751.
- Verify Key Compatibility: If keyed alike, test other compartment keys or a universal CH751 key, if you have one. It’s not unheard of for RVers to hit their neighbors up and successfully unlock their compartments.
- Inspect for Overrides: Gently check if the lock has a manual release tab or if the compartment is accessible via an adjacent bay.
- Use a Spare or Master Key: Retrieve from your main key set or a hidden spare; if lost, note that many factory keys are interchangeable. Again, check with other RVers nearby (if applicable). If alone or boondocking, consider the hammer (Just kidding).
- Seek Professional Help: If none of the above does the trick, don’t get the hammer. Instead, contact an RV technician or locksmith. The cost is usually cheaper for compartments.
Keyless Electronic Locks
Keyless keypad locks, fob/remote locks, and Bluetooth smart locks all fall under this umbrella.
If you lock yourself out of an RV with a keyless entry system installed, you might instinctively assume it’s harder to bypass. Not necessarily.
- Reset or Use Backup: Enter the default code (usually found in the manual and often 0000), or the last four of the serial number. Use the physical backup key you forgot about two years past (if you remember where it is), or replace the batteries via the external access panel.
- App or Remote Troubleshooting: Reconnect the keypad to the app, and charge your phone if necessary.
- For fobs, test the range or try and replace the battery.
- Manual Override: Look for a hidden key cylinder (common on keypads) or emergency release; consult the lock’s brand app or website for instructions specific to your model.
- Contact Manufacturer Customer Service: Brands like Furrion or Bauer often provide 24/7 help and support, and could potentially do an electronic bypass via your phone or by contacting a local RV technician.
“We installed one of these on our NP and love it. They sell them on Amazon too. https://amzn.to/47ZGRIm .”
Manual Sliding Locks
Last but not least, we have the manual sliding locks, which usually include the barrel bolts and sliding locks.
These are generally simple, including an internal slide bolt or latch, and are often secondary to the primary locks.
Some RVers have these installed as an aftermarket addition for extra security purposes.
- Check Engagement: Check to see (if it’s visible) whether or not there’s a small gap between the bolt and the bolt hole. If so, you can potentially slide it back using a card. You can use something heavier, but be gentle with it.
- Access From Alternate Side: Look around for any other potential access points, as with one of the tips above. If you find one, get inside and unlock it.
- Avoid Force: Spray some WD-40 on a visible, accessible bolt or another type of lubricant and try to work it open.
- Professional Assistance: Rarely needed for these (RVers usually find a way), but call an RV repair service or a locksmith as a last resort. This is often resolvable without the need for tools.
Alternative Entry Methods
Some of these are covered in the above, but being locked out of an RV isn’t as hopeless as being locked out of a car or a residential home. RVs simply aren’t as secure as residential homes or even vehicles. There are surprising access points and methods for getting that frustrating lock open.
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Accessing through windows or vents:
- Check for unlocked or partially open windows.
- Remove screens carefully to avoid damage.
- Use a slim tool to unlatch windows from the outside.
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Compartment access:
- Some storage compartments connect to the RV interior.
- Use compartment keys or tools to gain entry, then crawl through (if safe).
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Risks and precautions:
- Avoid breaking windows unless necessary (it’s kind of expensive).
- Ensure no security alarms are triggered. RVer of the week at your campground!
If you have an alarm on that think or a more elaborate security setup (for ED-209, call a pro immediately), it’s probably best to call in a professional. That’s better than waking up the entire campground after your late dinner and a movie trip to town.
Preventive Tips to Avoid Future Lockouts
The best part about being locked out of your RV is not being locked out of your RV. I think that makes sense…maybe.
Prepare accordingly, and you won’t have to worry about it.
For those with a fancy electronic keypad, make sure you regularly keep it updated and record your code in a super secret location.
Before you head out on your trip, check the battery level and test the keypad, just to be sure.
Even if the battery is looking good, replace it annually or before you go on a long trip. Duplicate keys for conventional locking systems and always store them securely.
Consider a hide-a-key box and locate it somewhere out of sight, not right out in the open, begging anyone to come along and give it a try.
“With the door open you can remove plug which is the middle of the door and using a 5/16 socket you can turn the nut to adjust so that the door opens when the handle has traveled about half the full pull.”
Consider weatherproof covers to keep moisture and debris out of your locks.
If keys just aren’t your thing and you prefer something high-tech, upgrade your system to a keyless, wireless entry or a keypad system with a backup key.
Never toss your manufacturer’s manual. You never know when you might need the valuable information inside.
If all else fails, contact roadside assistance for RV-specific help. That’s what they’re there for, and that’s what you pay them for.
Also, consider talking to other RVers or even the campground hosts to find help or an alternate universal key.
Plus, they may know the area better than you do, who to call and when, etc.
In a worst-case scenario, secure your RV as best you can and seek an alternative shelter for the time being or until you can get someone out there.
Make sure you document the issue for insurance or warranty claims in case any damage occurs.
Consider adding a lockpicking set to your tool bag, at least for the standard locking mechanisms.
Conclusion
Getting locked out of your RV isn’t necessarily the end of the world. Where there’s a will, there’s usually a way.
If you boondock in remote areas, you may need outside assistance, but with proper preparation, you should never encounter such a situation.
Always check for alternative entryways, spares, batteries, and/or codes if need be.
Lockpicking simple locks isn’t as difficult as it sounds, and there are plenty of walkthroughs on YouTube and other sites.
Lastly, feel free to share your story if you’ve ever been locked out of your RV, especially if it’s particularly embarrassing. Those stories are the best kind!
The post Locked Out of Your RV? Here’s What You Should Do appeared first on RV LIFE.
